Some Meteors resemble a fireball and are so called. They are like a Roman Candle Streaking across a quarter of the night sky sparking joyously as they go...the evening can be truly amazing during the yearly Perseid Meteor Shower.
But, I fear and fear admitting that last night was so good exactly because I did it alone and was by myself. I drove up the Angeles Crest Highway into the San Gabriel Mountains that ring Los Angeles...the most active and newest mountain range in the world they say.
Some Meteors resemble a fireball and are so called. They are like a Roman Candle Streaking across a quarter of the night sky sparking joyously as they go...the evening can be truly amazing during the yearly Perseid Meteor Shower.
But, I fear and fear admitting that last night was so good exactly because I did it alone and was by myself. I drove up the Angeles Crest Highway into the San Gabriel Mountains that ring Los Angeles...the most active and newest mountain range in the world they say.
But I found a turn off in a little valley, about 9.8 miles in, laid out a shirt from the back of my trunk on the ground and just laid down...the mountain was warm under me, even at 3:30am and this surprised me. It was like I was laying on hot stones brought out from a high end Japanese Spa to sooth me.
There was only a crescent moon. This was particularly good for the viewing in that it's brightness is just 30% of full. However, because I was in a dip at about the 3,500 ft level, the moon stayed mostly behind a ridge to my rear. I wish I had photographed this really lovely moonlit scene a little, but for me, photography is often a burden and this was supposed to be a present for that person that is me.
Laying on a hot mountain in the dark of night, drifting, a meteor shower overhead when I opened my eyes. Nice. This seems to be my year of Astophysics...I made and did well the Annular Solar Eclipse on May 20, 2012, in far away but stunning Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah, at about the 7,500 ft level.
I was up above Los Angeles at the Griffith Park Observatory on August 6, watching a live feed from JPL when the Mars Science Laboratory, Curiosity, touched down, everybody shouting and missing their attempts at high fiving and some people crying, Mars was a big deal and now, last night the night lit up for me...I was fortunate enough to see 1 and maybe 2 of what are known as fireballs, Meteors being tiny bits of matter streaking madly at 130,000 miles per hour across the night sky and then incinerating themselves into nothingness.
The Perseid Meteor Shower that happens every early August or thereabouts is known for having bright Meteors...but I've tried to see them before and never had the luck of seeing actual Fireballs, and though I only saw two light up the sky brightly, they were almost distant sparkler-like and left their white tails across a wide arc of the black sky.
All in all I did not see a hundred Meteors as is theoretically possible under perfect conditions; no moon, no city lights whatsoever, good altitude...I had none of these perfect conditions, but I could and did lay on the warm mountain rocky dirt for an uninterrupted hour and saw maybe 10 fine Meteors careening off in wildly different directions...and this was odd too, I thought the Meteors would all be going in roughly the same direction, but they weren't, they went wherever they wished, obeying Newtonian Laws that they knew better in their tiny icy cores than could any earthbound professor intellectually ever know...Then I had to shake myself and remember that these meteors were not the result of striking Earth's atmosphere...or not striking in the conventional sense of the word at all but rather it was Earth itself moving through the remnants of space debris left by the Swift-Tuttle Comet, it was Earth in motion striking the Meteors and then I stood up, laughing at myself and how little I knew for all my long life dedicated to leaning...as much as I could about as much as I could.
I still knew hardly nothing at all.
I read some Astro blogs today from here and there and around. People were thrilled to have seen 23 Meteors in 4 hours of serious searching so I figured I didn't do that badly at all.
I saw a car's headlights illuminate the speed sign across the road from me, and I smiled. There was a quick easy picture to be taken, (though I did eventually spend an hour working it in Photoshop), "45 Miles Per Hour," it read in full seriousness, above me Meteors were moving at a nicer clip, 130,000 miles per hour...
Traveller laughed.
He waited for the next car, took his picture and drove back to his soft bed in the suburbs of Los Angeles.
With Affection, Me



I can remember
(#286709)my father leading me up a small country road near Delemont to a dark field near the edge of the forest. We lay on our backs in the warm summer night surrounded by glow worms and enjoyed the meteors and the sounds of the cattle in the field.
I've been away camping in the south of France for a week with my wife and children and for a week on a farm in the Loire Forez mountains. It's a pleasure to come back and read this, though less of a pleasure to plough through the 1000 emails waiting for me.
The silence of a falling star
(#286717)lights up a purple sky
You will kill 10 of our men, and we will kill 1 of yours, and in the end it will be you who tire of it. - Ho Chi Minh
If it's not a secret
(#286781)how do you get such a sharp picture in low light? Mine come out grainy (even though it's a digital camera) if I try to fix them in photoshop; long exposures come out blurry.
The Secret Really is No Secret re Low Light Photography
(#286784)...I do tons of it, (because that is usually when I have time...lol), but there are distinct rewards.
Most simply put, DSLR or Point and Shoot, and I have success with both, is know your equipment...shoot enough of it and you will figure out what your camera and lens are capable of.
With the old Canon T1i that this was shot with, I can successfully hand hold down to 1/10 of a second in low light because of the Image Stabilization in my 15~85mm lens...there will be more camera shake naturally as I approach the telephoto end of 85mm...therefore my shutter speed may move up to 1/15 to 1/20th of a second.
I still try to keep my iso in the low range, 200, 400 or in a pinch, 800...I know the new cameras are supposed to be able to go up to fantastical numbers...but stay low if possible.
A last tip re hand held, turn yourself into a tripod, be like a sniper, stop breathing, squeeze off the shot, you yourself should not even know when the shutter fires. Brace yourself on a lamp post or a fence...better yet, sit the camera down on some parked car (ahem), and squeeze off a shot not actually holding the camera, it being on a firm surface...which really can be anything.
This shot however used a tripod...not expensive, light, under fifty dollars, 6 seconds long this shot was at iso 200...again, I generally use mirror lock up for long exposure images to reduce any possible camera shake, but here I was lazy...but again I gently timed and squeezed off the shot to avoid camera shake, the real culprit in you concerns.
I hope this helps.
And practice, try it just for fun here and there, eventually these ideas will become second nature to you.
Best Wishes, Traveller
Why not use the timer?
(#286792)When without a tripod, the camera can be set onto the ground, or a convenient ledge or rock, and used with the 2 sec or 10 sec timer.
literally anything can become right or wrong if the dominant class of the moment so wills it
No, Excellent Suggestion, manish, I Even...
(#286794)...frequently put a writing pen, or a filter or a stone under the lens to lift it to the level I want for framing...and yes, the self timer works perfectly in this instance.
Best wishes, Traveller
Be a sniper indeed!
(#286801)Years of photography made me a good shot first time out. Mentally, it was exactly the same thing. And because I like low-light, no flash photography, I've done a lot of what you said. It became second nature.
The self-timer trick Manish mentions is good also, if you can find a support with a desirable vantage point.
Here is another tip, made possible by digital, if you don't have image stabilization or it's not too effective on your camera, and you can't get into a good position and are slow (but not less than say 1/4 second for a normal focal length). The tip is: use continuous shooting mode and take five to ten shots, or more, holding down the shutter button. Usually at least one shot will be surprisingly sharp, maybe two. It's a poor man's IS. Not for every day use, but sometimes it has gotten me what I wanted. For example, I wanted to be able to read the text on a particular CFL bulb. The bulb was off, not well lit, and high. There was no useful support available, and I just had a small Canon P&S. I got the picture.
Basically this works because 1) camera shake is fairly sinusoidal, and 2) even the most sniperish photographer does move the camera slightly when pressing the shutter button, or releasing/relaxing afterwards. Since shake is sinusoidal, your best shots will be those that begin to expose right before you hit the top or bottom of the sine wave that describes your motion. Say you "shake" at 1Hz. About 1/3 of the time you are at the bottom or top of the shake, so, statistically, a good sub 1/4 second exposure should happen in the right place at least once in ten shots. Also, since the shutter button is depressed the whole time, it has no impact except in the first exposure or two.
I am not a pessimist. I am an incompetent optimist.
Had noticed that
(#286934)occasionally I'd get a better shot at random which jibes with what you say. If I could just get a square wave shake it would be OK...
I agree, use low ISO
(#286803)the higher ISO numbers give you noise in the image and also seems to affect the color balance. High ISO only seems to work for me in bright light-extremely short exposure situations.
I blame it all on the Internet
Thanks for all the advice
(#286932)I'll try out what you said some night this week with my cheapo Fuji camera. I confess I normally let it pick all the settings but from what you and everyone else here is saying it looks like one's got to set everything manually to even have a chance.
I will add a little to what has been said
(#286807)or rather emphasise a bit. Since your problem is grain, what you have is image noise. This shows up in long exposures especially in the dark parts of th image. As others have said low iso is less prone to it (but then you need a longer exposure which works against you - use a wider aperature)
The single biggest improvement you can usually make is to buy a newer or a better camera. Newer sensors are much less prone to the problem. Larger sensors, such as those found in the SLR style cameras are also much less prone. So, if you're not already using one, a new DSLR lke the nikon D7000 will make a big difference. Even the last generation of cameras like the D90 are a step change improvements from the previous.
Thanks
(#286933)what you say makes sense, should have known from my DSP course but never thought about it.
But I should probably learn all the knobs on what I've got before spending more money.